Chapter 8 Our Spicy (Mala) Tonkotsu
Spicy (Mala) Tonkotsu
We’re not claiming to be the first to make Spicy Tonkotsu-far from it. Many Western shops have their versions, and Ichiran made it a tourist favorite. But here’s the truth: the Japanese ramen scene isn’t especially crazy about spicy ramen. While you can find it, chili is often used in a simple, almost blunt way-dry chilies tossed straight into the soup. It’s not bad, just not my favorite way to enjoy chili’s fragrance and complexity.
Inspired by my love for Sichuan cuisine, I developed a fiery mala chili paste that delivers both numbing and spicy sensations. Made with dried chilies from Mexico and Sichuan peppercorns from China, it’s rehydrated in Shaoxing wine, mirin, and neutral oil. The result is a punchy, aromatic paste that doesn’t overwhelm. We keep it simple, so it complements rather than overpowers the Tonkotsu.
We first offered this special at our Liu pop-up, but for many of you, this will be a new experience. Imagine our rich, creamy Tonkotsu broth with a dollop of smooth mala paste on top. It’s thick enough to dissolve slowly, gradually releasing its aromatic, spicy, and numbing qualities into the soup. Don’t worry-you won’t choke on it! If anything, it’s a memorable heat that lingers, enhancing the bowl for hours after you leave. Chili should always add a new layer, not mask a bad soup. It’s an extra, not a cover-up.
If you want to go all-in, I highly recommend our Spicy Seabura topping. It’s marinated backfat, cooked until meltingly tender-think pork belly fat, but next level. It sounds intense, but trust me, it’s my absolute favorite topping at Kuma Ramen. It brings a richness and meatiness that makes the bowl unforgettable. While most places in Japan simply boil it, we braise ours in our evolving century liquid, which we’ve kept alive since day one.
Our Mala Tonkotsu is about balance and experience: creamy broth, numbing heat, rich seabura, and the complexity of real mala paste. It’s not just spicy for the sake of it-it’s a new, layered way to experience Tonkotsu and one you won’t soon forget.
